Hand-Painted Prayers

In September, I had the joy of visiting my sister, who lives in one of Majorca's tiniest villages, tucked high in the Tramuntana mountains—a UNESCO-protected site rich in fauna and flora. Once an Arab farmstead, this steep mountainside village is a beautifully preserved example of the interchange between Muslim and Christian cultures, craftsmanship, and technologies. Cobbled pathways meander through ancient irrigation systems and terraces, where orange, lemon, and olive trees still thrive.

The air is rich with the scent of orange blossom and jasmine, mingling with the dry warmth of distant wood smoke. Fig trees are giving up the last of their fruit, as prickly pears peep between almond trees and rosemary bushes – it’s no wonder everything here tastes incredible.

But the most enchanting treasures the village has to offer aren’t for our culinary indulgence, and unless you know what to look for, you might miss them altogether. Take a moment to peel your eyes away from the charming stone stairways and lazy street cats, and look up – for there’s medieval magic waiting to be discovered, hidden in plain sight.

High in the eaves of some of the oldest houses, you’ll discover hand-painted rood tiles, each a tiny masterpiece. Some sing in simple patterns of geometry and abstraction, while others show animals and flowers, suns, moons, stars and other pagan symbols drawn from the world of folklore. Some bear dates, while others display religious imagery, yet they all share a common purpose. Each was lovingly painted with the intention of safeguarding the buildings they adorn and the lives sheltered within them.

One of my favourite depicts a figure with a radiant sun for a head, arms outstretched, her lower body a wide arch embracing the earth. From her, seeds or droplets cascade, spilling life onto the ground below. On other tiles, cacti, pomegranates and palm trees stand as prayers for abundance. The sun, the seeds, the water, and the fertile earth of the painted clay—all in harmony, quietly blessing the village with a simple promise of prosperity.

Since my visit, I’ve been captivated by these tiles, and I’ve been painting their designs, trying to capture some of their old worldly magic.